A childhood revisited: pizza, wine, cheese and a top notch chef by Alex James

For a time my granddad worked as a groundsman at a country club and I count the days I spent there as a child among the best of my life.


I’d never seen a sauna before, nor a Jacuzzi or mood lighting.

It was a whole new world of glamour, my Brideshead. There was a kidney-shaped swimming pool with a bar where my sister, my cousin and I could drink Coca-Cola, sitting in the water. It’s now part of Marco Pierre White’s empire and by strange coincidence I met him there this week to talk about cheese.

As I arrived in Congresbury I felt my heart thump in my chest, just as it always did when I was a kid.

It’s changed a lot. It’s called the Cadbury House now. I found Marco in the Italian restaurant. There was a pizza tasting taking place but it was more like walking into an insane feast.

Chefs were tucking in with gusto and Marco’s wine supplier conducted a tasting of dazzling varieties from a syrupy tokaji to a spicy New Zealand red.

And just when I was thinking, “It doesn’t get much better than this,” my cheese guys arrived with a small mountain of the stuff and we got stuck into that.

Then I called my aunt and uncle and said, “You’ll never guess where I am!” They arrived less than five minutes later and we had a glass of champagne and watched the sun go down on the longest day of the year.


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